On the Road in the Emerald City: A Conversation with an Irish Traveller in Seattle

 This is a slightly different blog for the week, as it features no picture and is an interview I conducted with a gentleman I met in Seattle not too long ago. Enjoy 

 

For centuries, the Irish Travellers—known in their own language as Pavee or Mincéirí—have carried their culture, language, and traditions across Ireland and beyond. Unlike settled Irish communities, Travellers historically maintained a nomadic lifestyle, specialising in crafts, music, horse trading, tin smithing, and storytelling. Their distinct identity has survived centuries of marginalisation, misunderstanding, and dispersal, including migration to places far from their ancestral lands.

Seattle, a city of constant movement and cultural fusion, has become home to a small but vibrant Traveller community. To better understand their life, heritage, and modern experiences, I sat down with Seamus O’Connell, an Irish Traveller who has lived in the city for over twenty years.

Q: Seamus, thank you for taking the time to talk. Can you start by explaining what it means to be an Irish Traveller in today’s world?

Seamus: Sure. Being a Traveller today is about more than moving from place to place—it’s a way of life, a community, and a shared history. We carry the stories, songs, and traditions of our people with us. Even when we’re in a city like Seattle, we keep those connections alive through family gatherings, music, storytelling, and crafts. Our identity isn’t just historical—it’s lived every day.

Q: How did you and your family come to Seattle?

Seamus: My parents came here in the 1980s, seeking work and better opportunities. They were used to moving seasonally in Ireland, but in America, we had to adapt. We settled in areas where other Travellers lived or where jobs were available, but we maintained many of the old ways. Family networks are key—we still gather regularly, and skills like metalworking, tinsmithing, and even traditional music are passed down.

Q: What are some of the biggest misconceptions about Travellers?

Seamus: People often think Travellers are just “wandering beggars” or troublemakers, which is completely false. We’ve always been hardworking, whether in trades, music, or seasonal labour. The problem is that society historically marginalised us and labelled us unfairly. Education, skill, and community responsibility are deeply valued in Traveller culture.

Q: How do you maintain cultural practices and traditions here in Seattle?

Seamus: It’s about creating spaces for family and community. We host gatherings for music sessions, storytelling, and craftwork. Shelta, our secret language, is still spoken within families—it’s a way to communicate and maintain group identity. We also attend cultural festivals and fairs, often demonstrating crafts like tinsmithing, traditional horse handling, or jewellery making. Technology helps too, connecting us with Travellers in Ireland and across the U.S., so our community network remains strong.

Q: Can you give an example of some of the crafts or trades that are still practiced?

Seamus: Absolutely. Metalwork is big—tin trays, copper pots, and decorative pieces. Some families still do horse trading or training, although on a smaller scale. Music is crucial, too—harps, fiddles, and accordions. Even the stories we tell are a form of craft, keeping history, morality, and humour alive. Young Travellers learn all of this, often alongside regular schooling or work.

Q: How does your community navigate the challenges of modern urban life while keeping these traditions alive?

Seamus: It’s a balancing act. Kids go to school, and adults work in trades or service industries, but the family unit remains central. Community events, halting sites, and Traveller gatherings in Seattle create opportunities to maintain identity. It’s about preserving heritage while adapting—like keeping Shelta alive, teaching traditional music, and continuing craft skills.

Q: What role does storytelling play in your culture?

Seamus: Storytelling is everything. It passes on history, morals, and humour. We tell tales about ancestors, about Ireland, and about Travellers we know personally. Stories are also a way to teach young people about resilience, honour, and community responsibility. Some are funny, some are serious, and some even involve elements of the Otherworld from old Celtic mythology.

Q: Do young Travellers in Seattle engage with these traditions?

Seamus: Many do, but it’s different from when we were growing up in Ireland. Now, kids have school, sports, and city life, but there’s pride in who they are. They sing, play music, and sometimes learn crafts, keeping our traditions alive. There’s also curiosity—they want to know where they come from and what it means to be Traveller in a modern context.

Q: How do Travellers in Seattle interact with the wider community?

Seamus: We try to build understanding. Some people are curious and respectful, others suspicious because of stereotypes. Education helps—sharing our crafts, music, and stories creates bridges. We’re also involved in advocacy, working with local groups to promote recognition, rights, and cultural understanding.

Q: Seamus, can you tell me about a typical day in your life as a Traveller in Seattle?

Seamus: Every day is a balance between work, family, and culture. I might start by checking on a small craft project—maybe a copper tray I’m making or some repairs for a neighbour. Afternoons are often spent with family, teaching my children Shelta words, songs, or basic tinsmithing skills. Evenings can be music sessions or storytelling around a fire in a halting site. It’s not like life in the country, where everything is seasonal. Here, we adapt, but the traditions carry through.

Q: How do you teach Shelta to the younger generation?

Seamus: Mostly through conversation and stories. Kids learn by listening, repeating, and playing games. Some words are simple, like “halting” for a stop, or “rokker” for a gathering. Others are more secret, used to communicate privately. It’s not just a language—it’s a way to pass on culture and identity. Even my teenagers sometimes surprise me, slipping into Shelta at school or with friends who understand.

Q: Can you share a memory from your childhood in Ireland that still shapes your life today?

Seamus: I remember attending a fair with my grandfather. There were horses, music, storytellers, and tinsmiths demonstrating their craft. He leaned down and whispered in Shelta, “Watch and learn, the world may change, but we carry our people with us.” That stuck with me. Every time I teach my kids a skill or story, I think of him. It’s about continuity—what we do today is connected to hundreds of years of Traveller life.

Q: How do you handle stereotypes when people first meet you?

Seamus: I try to educate, gently but firmly. Often, people are curious and respectful when they understand our history. I might show them a craft, play a song, or explain a tradition. It’s not about arguing—it’s about inviting them to see the reality. Most misconceptions vanish once people understand we’re artisans, musicians, and storytellers with a strong sense of family.

Q: Music seems to be very important. Can you give an example of a traditional song or tune you perform?

Seamus: Yes, one of my favourites is an old harp tune called “The Pavee’s Journey.” It’s passed down orally, no sheet music, and it tells the story of our travels, our connection to land and water, and the joy of community. Sometimes I sing lyrics in Shelta, sometimes in English—it depends on the audience, but the melody carries the memory of our ancestors.

Q: What advice would you give to someone wanting to understand or respectfully engage with Traveller culture?

Seamus: Respect, curiosity, and patience. Don’t assume you know our story—ask, listen, and participate when invited. Appreciate our crafts, our music, our language, but remember that family and community come first. It’s not a museum exhibit; it’s a living culture.

Q: Finally, what does it mean to you personally to be a Traveller in Seattle?

Seamus: It means carrying my heritage with pride, teaching the next generation, and building a community even far from Ireland. It’s about resilience, identity, and connection. We’re not frozen in the past—we adapt, we work, and we celebrate our culture every day. Walking the streets of Seattle, speaking Shelta with my family, playing a tune, or making a tray—I feel linked to centuries of Travellers who came before me. That continuity is everything.

Q: Finally, what’s one thing you wish more people understood about Irish Travellers?

Seamus: That we’re resilient, proud, and deeply rooted in family and community. We’ve faced prejudice for centuries, yet we continue to maintain our identity, adapt to new circumstances, and contribute to society wherever we go. Our culture is alive and moving, not frozen in time.

Traveller Vocabulary (Shelta Words)

Shelta	English Meaning	Notes
Pavee	Traveller	Southern Ireland usage
Mincéirí	Traveller	Northern Ireland usage
Beurla-reagaird	Secret Cant language	Maintains privacy & group cohesion
Halting Site	Temporary settlement	Used for trade, rest, and social gatherings
Rokkering	Social gathering/festival activity	Music, storytelling, and family meetups

Traditional Crafts and Music

• Metalwork: Tinsmithing, copper pots, decorative trays.
• Horse Handling: Trading, training, and seasonal fairs.
• Music: Harp, fiddle, accordion; songs passed orally across generations.
• Storytelling: Folktales, family histories, and moral stories.

Seattle Traveller Community Events

• Halting Gatherings: Periodic family reunions and cultural meet-ups.
• Music Sessions: Fiddle and harp performances at local cultural centres.
• Craft Exhibitions: Demonstrations of tinsmithing, copper work, and jewellery making.
• Storytelling Circles: Oral histories shared for young Travellers and interested community members.

Seamus steps out into the Seattle drizzle, speaking quietly in Shelta to a cousin, their laughter echoing down the street. In a city built on movement, technology, and change, the Travellers remind us that some journeys are about continuity and heritage—the passing down of skills, stories, and identity across generations.